Chipping

For my first blog entries I will be doing tutorials covering my favourite part of the painting process, weathering.  Before we dive in, weathering does require a little forethought.  For example, what kind of conditions/setting is the vehicle in?  Does it get a lot of use or only a little? Also, where you position the chips is important, again a good example of a heavy amount of wear would be on somewhere like an assault ramp that is constantly trod on. As it does not require a great deal of maintenance seeing as it is a slab of metal deep in the recess on the front of a Landraider, tucked under an assault cannon. There will not be many chips in there as debris either cannot reach that far or will hit the cannon first. The third thing to think about is the right chips for the right job,  the two differing techniques I use consist of the common sponge approach and manually applying the chips with a brush.  I will show both here and why I have used them in the given context.

This is a short and easy tutorial to follow but it is the first stage in taking your armour to the next level.

1.  The first stage is to take your lightest colour you have used for your armour and add a touch of white so it is noticeably brighter.  This becomes a pain with red as you will end up with pink which looks funny so I use orange and then with black armour I use a light grey or white.  This is the base colour of your scratch and you need to take a detail brush and add random scratches, dings and dents.  Remember to focus the heavy wear on places that will receive the most punishment like forward facing leading edges and as our subject is a tank some chipping on the bottoms of the skirts.   This is important because if you put loads of wear where it just wouldn’t realistically happen it will not sit right no matter how good the paint job is.  Also, LESS IS MORE!! I cannot stress that enough with weathering, over do it and all your stuff just looks like it is devoted to Nurgle. There are still two more stages of weathering to do after chipping so the less is more approach really matters as need to save space for showing off those other details too.

 

2.  Using the detail brush again you will need a nice dark mix of black and brown. I use scorched brown but any similar will do. A 50/50 mix is ok but I try not to give too much in the way of ratios as its down to what you like really. Experiment and get a feel for what is right. This will simply need to be applied over the light marks you have made trying your best to keep a thin line of blue at the bottom of the scratch/chip.  this represents light reflecting off the top of the projecting layer of paint.  In some cases this will not be possible, like the scratches that are actually on the bottom lip of a plate of armour, for these just exercise a little artistic license. As long as the blue shows somewhere you will be OK.

The above picture best shows the awkward sections on either side of the track. One side having finished chips and the other just the blue so you can see the huge difference just two colours can make.

Above you can see various armour plates from the tank where the chipping has been completed.

The sponge technique was then used on the side exit floors. I chose this method here as the wear is a lot heavier, as you would expect with ceramite boots indiscriminately going back and forth. You can use this on the leading edges of armour where damage and wear would be heaviest but I personally find this is best suited to pappa Nurgle when used en masse.  This is a two stage affair once again with the same colours used. Dip your sponge into your light colour for the base chipping and dab the sponge onto the subject where you want wear and tear. Remember this is to be treated like drybrushing, remove the majority of paint from the sponge before you touch the model with it.  Less is more again.  Keep repeating this mantra.  Once you are happy with this it is back to the detail brush with the black/brown mix and apply the colour remembering to keep a thin amount of the lighter colour showing at the bottom.

To show the sponge technique shall here is a finished pic as it really doesn’t need all the pictures to explain again, the premise is the same as with a brush.

I hope this is informative enough for you and the next tutorial will be covering the use of oil paints to make the paintwork look aged and water damaged with some rusty/grimey streaks. Again I will keep it to two colours only and make it as accessible as possible.  Thanks for reading.

Hades.

Hades

My name is Joel and I am the other half of Fifty Shades of Wray. I started this hobby with Airfix kits over 20 years ago, painting any military models I could get my hands on. Then I discovered 40k and my sci fi addiction spiraled out of control. I now put my military modelling knowledge to better use on Rhinos and Landraiders!!